Saturday, November 15, 2025

Wild carrots or Queen Anne's Lace


Wild carrot among the rocks

Discovering Wild Carrot in the Unlikeliest Places

By John Fisher (assisted by AI)
Sometimes the most interesting discoveries come from the smallest things—like a few bright green leaves peeking out from between a cluster of rocks. While weeding our peonies, Melanie noticed a patch of delicate, feathery plants growing in hard, rocky soil. At first glance, they looked like tiny ferns or perhaps young wildflowers. But a closer look revealed something more familiar: these humble plants were actually young wild carrot, also known as Queen Anne’s lace.

Summary of the Discovery
The little green plants stood out sharply against the dusty earth and scattered stones. Their finely divided, lace-like leaves resembled the leafy tops of garden carrots. Curious, I examined them more closely by taking a photo with my cell phone and asking chatGPT to identify the plant. Their shape, color, and growth pattern matched the characteristics of Daucus carota, a plant that flourishes in disturbed or rocky soil and often appears where most other plants struggle to grow.

Wild carrot is the ancestor of the modern cultivated carrot, and in its early stages the resemblance is unmistakable. Although it can look similar to other species, such as yarrow or certain parsley-family plants, the feathery leaf structure is a strong indicator. These plants were a perfect match.

Although wild carrot (Daucus carota) is related to poisonous plants like poison hemlock, the wild carrot plant itself is not poisonous when correctly identified, but parts of it can still cause problems. The leaves and stems of wild carrot may cause skin irritation in some people because they contain furanocoumarins—chemicals that can react with sunlight and lead to a rash. The root is technically edible when the plant is very young, but it quickly becomes woody, bitter, and unsafe to consume as it ages. The real danger comes from its close resemblance to poison hemlock, a deadly plant that can be fatal if ingested. Hemlock has smooth stems with purple blotches, a foul smell, and finer, more delicate leaves, but to an untrained eye, the two can look similar—especially before flowering. Because of this, experts advise never eating or handling wild carrot unless you are absolutely sure of the identification, and to avoid consuming any wild plant from the carrot family unless you can distinguish it from poisonous look-alikes.

Finding wild carrot in such a tough, barren patch of ground was a reminder of how resilient certain species can be. It also highlighted how much beauty and complexity exists in small, easily overlooked corners of nature.

Conclusion
A handful of feathery green leaves between rocks may not seem significant at first glance—but nature rewards attention. The discovery of wild carrot in this rugged little space offered a quiet lesson in resilience, adaptability, and the joy of noticing the details. Sometimes, all it takes is a moment of curiosity to uncover the remarkable hidden in the ordinary.

Keywords: wild carrot, nature discovery, Queen Anne’s lace, rocky soil, plant identification

Wednesday, August 27, 2025

Choosing the Right Evergreen

Evergreen Trees for Utah’s High Desert

by John Fisher (assisted by AI)


Planting Evergreens in Utah’s High Desert

Living in Utah’s high desert country means extra work if you want trees to thrive. While native shrubs and grasses survive on their own, evergreens need irrigation and careful planting to get established. With the right choice of tree—and some patience—you can bring year-round green to your yard.

Last year, I planted a pine that unfortunately didn’t make it. The problem was that it had been root bound in its pot, and I didn’t do enough to free those circling roots before planting. That experience taught me the importance of preparation. When planting, always dig a hole two to three times wider than the root ball, loosen and separate the roots, and mix in acidic soil before backfilling with the original soil. Most important of all, water daily until the tree is well established.


Junipers grow naturally in the wild.

Best Evergreen Options for the High Desert

Here are some evergreens that do well in the Utah climate:

Utah Juniper (Juniperus osteosperma) – Native to the high desert, extremely drought tolerant, and nearly maintenance-free once mature.

Bristlecone Pine (Pinus longaeva) – Hardy, long-lived, and adapted to dry, rocky soils.

Blue Spruce (Picea pungens) – Beautiful blue-green color, but it requires more water and space.

Arizona Cypress (Hesperocyparis arizonica) – Drought resistant, attractive foliage, good for ornamental planting.

Rocky Mountain Juniper (Juniperus scopulorum) – Great for windbreaks, wildlife, and dry soils.

For more adventurous gardeners, species like Incense-cedar or Lacebark Pine can also be tried, though they need a little more water and care.


Irrigation and Care Tips

First 1–2 years: Water daily, especially in summer, to encourage deep roots.

Once established: Cut back watering—most native species can survive with natural rainfall.

Soil prep: Use loose, well-drained soil. Avoid letting roots sit in soggy ground.

Fire safety: With junipers especially, clear dead branches and keep them trimmed away from structures.


Final Thoughts

If you’re planting evergreens in Utah’s high desert, success comes down to three things: choosing the right species, preparing the soil and roots properly, and watering faithfully at the start. My own loss of a pine last year was a tough lesson, but it reinforced how important good planting practices are. With patience and care, your evergreens can thrive, adding shade, beauty, and year-round color to our desert landscape.



Hashtags: #UtahGardening #EvergreenTrees #HighDesertLiving #DroughtTolerant #TreeCare

Tuesday, August 26, 2025

Prepare for a Perpetual Harvest

A Garden Plan for Fall Growing 

by Melanie Fisher (assisted by AI)

After a busy summer or a gardening setback, there’s something deeply satisfying about getting back on track with a solid fall garden plan. While the heat of August may seem like a strange time to think about new plantings, it’s actually the perfect moment to begin planning for a productive fall and winter garden. With a few key strategies, you can make the most of your space and ensure a continuous harvest well into the colder months.

Planning the fall garden—harvest never ends. Image concept and generation by ChatGPT (OpenAI).


Transplants and Timing

If you’re like me and missed the optimal window for starting fall seedlings, take heart—many garden centers still carry transplants, and now is a great time to find them. Cabbage, for example, matures in about 65 days, which means planting in late August or early September gets you to harvest by the end of October. Pay close attention to projected frost dates and select varieties known for fast maturity.

Other great options include kale and Swiss chard, both of which grow quickly and can tolerate cooler weather. Mulching these greens will help retain soil moisture and offer protection as temperatures begin to drop.

Make Room: Summer Crop Management

To transition into fall gardening without sacrificing yield, begin by managing your summer crops. Prune back tomato leaves to let light reach fall seedlings planted nearby. You can grow fall crops like green onions, lettuce, and beets underneath summer vines, provided they receive enough sun.

Then, make a plan for when to pull out summer crops entirely. Once you harvest garlic, for example, that space is perfect for planting soft crops like beets, carrots, radishes, and more green onions.

Planning by Maturity: Determinants and Successions

As you evaluate your garden beds, consider which tomatoes are “determinate” (producing all at once) versus “indeterminate” (fruiting continuously). Determinate varieties can be removed earlier, freeing up space for cold-tolerant greens like collards and Swiss chard, which will thrive in the late-season garden. Lettuce and green onions can be succession planted in rows where determinate tomatoes once grew.

The Perpetual Harvest Plan

This approach is more than just squeezing in a few extra crops—it’s a mindset. With thoughtful planning, you can keep your garden producing from one season to the next. The key is overlapping plantings, anticipating frost dates, choosing the right varieties, and rotating crops efficiently. It’s a bit like a dance—remove one plant, add another, prune where needed, mulch when necessary.

So whether you’re starting late or simply ready to re-engage, this fall is your opportunity to revive your garden and set yourself up for a steady stream of fresh produce.


Keywords: fall gardening, transplanting, perpetual harvest, succession planting, cabbage

Hashtags: #FallGarden #PerpetualHarvest #UrbanFarming #SeasonalPlanting #HomegrownVeggies

Tuesday, March 25, 2025

Transplanting Raspberries

A Gardener’s Guide: How to Transplant Raspberries for a Healthy Harvest

Image created by AI is not exact.


By John Fisher (assisted by AI)

Transplanting raspberries might seem intimidating, but it’s a simple process that can yield a bountiful harvest when done correctly. Whether you’re expanding your garden or rescuing overcrowded canes, knowing when and how to move your raspberries can make all the difference. This guide walks you through the key steps and best timing for transplanting raspberry plants to ensure they thrive in their new home.


Step-by-Step: How to Transplant Raspberries

1. Prepare the New Planting Area

Select a sunny spot with well-drained soil—raspberries love the sun and dislike soggy roots. Mix in compost to enrich the soil and improve drainage.

2. Select Healthy Raspberry Plants

Choose strong, healthy raspberry suckers or canes with a good root system. Avoid any with signs of disease or damage.

3. Dig Up the Plants Carefully

Use a spade to gently dig around the plant, aiming to preserve as much of the root system as possible. Cut cleanly between suckers and the main plant if needed.

4. Replant in the New Location

Dig holes large enough for the roots and place the plants at the same depth they were previously growing. Firm the soil around the base and water thoroughly.

5. Water and Maintain

Keep the soil consistently moist for several weeks after transplanting to help the plants adjust. This support is crucial to avoid transplant shock.

6. Prune for Fresh Growth

Trim any damaged or dead canes to encourage strong, new growth in the spring.


Best Time to Transplant Raspberries

Timing is everything when transplanting raspberries. Aim for early spring or late fall when the plants are dormant. This period helps minimize stress and gives roots time to settle before active growth resumes.


Conclusion:

Transplanting raspberries isn’t just about moving plants—it’s about giving them a fresh start in a well-prepared home. By following these simple steps and choosing the right time, you’ll be setting your raspberry patch up for seasons of sweet success. Happy gardening!


Keywords:

raspberry transplanting, garden tips, healthy plants, growing berries, spring gardening

Hashtags:

#GardeningTips #RaspberryPlants #HomeGarden #BerrySeason #PlantCare